Inspiration: I am always looking for things to do, and my friend, Meltem, popped me a message while she was traveling about a 9 day hut to hut hike in the Dolomites, a region I hoped to hike at some point. I replied it was on my bucket list, a cliche I am not always in favor of using, but that 9 days was too many. We then settled on a 4 day hike with three nights in the huts, or Rifugios, and the timing was right with Labor Day weekend.
The Dolomites: This famously beautiful mountain range in northern Italy can be thought of as part of the southern Alps, but most people in the area consider it separate because the mountains are different. They are generally formed from a special type of rock named after a man called Dolomite, generally more of a beige color up close, with lots of pieces that bleach white and look like marble, as well as more of the traditional light gray. They top out around 10000 feet and are not able to sustain glaciers over the summer. The valleys are lush and green, and the area is beloved by outdoor sports enthusiasts all year round. It will be hosting the 2026 Winter Olympics, for what it is worth.
The Plan: With three nights in rifugios, that left several other days for adventure. I wanted to leave Friday and fly to Venice, a city I love (3rd visit), the closest city and airport to Cortina d’Ampezzo, the place where the hikes would start and finish. So, I would stay in Venice Saturday and Sunday, then take a bus to Cortina Monday, stay in a hotel there Monday night, start the hike Tuesday morning and return to the same hotel Friday afternoon, where I would leave a bag with my nonessentials. I would have to carry everything else with me. I would stay over there Friday and then leave for Venice again Saturday, for one more night before flying out in the morning. The trekking company MONT Trekking handled the plans really well. I found them by googling “Hut to Hut in Dolomites.”
Drama: Usually a few things go wrong on my trips, and this was no exception. I was in good health after rehabbing a minor knee problem that took a while to settle and still bothered me a bit going down stairs. I did a flat 12 mile run the week before, so I was plenty fit for anything normal humans could do. It was my first trip with the plan to carry a regular back pack for several days. I worried especially about being able to take running stuff along, as I always plan to run every day on a trip, hiking or not. This worked out ok and I actually didn’t use a lot of my clothes, though I took a pair of barefoot running shoes I had never run in, and the sole was not tough enough for trails. I felt every rock, and my calves hurt after the first run (this was my biggest packing mistake, but Venice and the mountains are not the greatest places for anything more than short runs). The worst drama was missing the bus in the afternoon on Monday after waiting at the wrong point (there was almost no help available and little information from the Cortina Express bus. Their website does not work well for non-Italians and their directions are needlessly vague and not up to date. The airport has almost no information available, either). Even though I knew it had probably left, I ran to the stop with all my bags, about a 4 minute run and was drenched in sweat. I had to wait another 3 hours and then had to buy a new ticket after I was told by a service rep they would honor the old ticket since the bus was not full. They were wrong and the bus driver was mean. I made it up there just before 8pm and had only time to grab a quick meal. Finally, while I was trying to use my credit card to tap to pay for a bus ticket back to Venice from the airport, I needed some help. An agent came over and got me straight, but after I put my bag on the bus, I realized I did not have my wallet!! I lost my wallet (again!!). I ran around the bus and saw it by the ticket machine on the sidewalk (it had been less than a minute). I quickly got it, and it changed the tenor of my trip back to Venice from one of dread to one of happiness. I also left my Kindle at the breakfast table my last day in Cortina. I went to talk to the guy at the front desk (he has worked there most of this life and was there pretty much every day), and I noticed it sitting there. Would have been tragic to forget it.
Travel: The trip over was smooth. I left work early on Friday and was already packed. I had an easy drive to Newark and parked, got the shuttle, and got through security easily. Contrary to my British Airways flight to Scotland, United Airlines was a superstar!! We started boarding right on time and were ready to go early. The air conditioning worked, the seats were ok, I had a tiny person sitting next to me who kept her arms to herself, and I actually slept some on the flight. We got there early and everything went well from there. I was able to buy a return bus pass to Venice for 10E each way and the bus was not crowded. I got off in Piazzale Roma and had only a 6 minute walk over two bridges carrying my stuff. The hotel, a fantastic place called Hotel Avani Rio Novo Venice, let me check in early (around 10am), and I was able to go to my room, shower and change as well as get on some sunscreen, as it was a beautiful, sunny and hot day. The hotel had a great (but not free) breakfast, and a nice little gym in the basement. The room was small but lovely and comfortable. They also let me check out at 12pm on Monday so I could keep my luggage there and still go out sight-seeing Monday morning.
The return trip was from Ca’Zose boutique hotel, which was on the southeastern part of the city near the Guggenheim. It was a much longer walk. The room was very small, but nice. I did not spend much time there, but I walked to the bus stop Sunday morning carrying all my stuff and caught a bus quickly after buying a ticket. I had to wait in a queue for a while, but it went fine and was a bargain. The Venice Airport has no information (I am not exaggerating), with only signs for gates to check in. I wandered around and found the gates for US travel on the upstairs at the far end. One could only go in three hours before or less, so I waited a while and then everything was super smooth. I got a breakfast and that flight on United also boarded smoothly and early. I had a middle seat between a husband and wife. I watched The Fall Guy, a very funny movie, and Civil War, not so good. No problems at Newark and back in time for dinner and an early bedtime.
Running: I was in good shape, but the barefoot shoes gave me some calf soreness after running on the sidewalks and stones of Venice, so I had to take it real easy. I was able run a little over three miles Sunday and Monday, with a run to Piazza San Marco on Sunday early, and then past the train station and some wider walkways on the western side of the city Monday. We had to get up too early on Tuesday to run, but I did a 2.25 mile jog once we got to the first rifugio. I think we were just over 7100ft elevation at the rifugio, and the trails went down from there. On the way back it was quite steep and I walked part of a hill. The rocks were very rough on my feet. The other rifugios did not have good places to run, and it would have been hard to warm up, etc. I ran 4 miles in Cortina Saturday morning. I got bad muscle spasm in my right calf within a minute after starting, but I walked it off and was able to jog slowly on a path along the highway. Sunday I also had to get up too early while in Venice. So, 4 runs.
Pull-ups: NONE! I never saw anything that could have been used. I did pull-ups when I was in Rome (there is a memorable video on YouTube), so I did not need to add Italy to my list. I did work out in the hotel gym the first Sunday.
Weather: Venice was hot and muggy, a bit like Georgia. Rarely any clouds. Cortina was pretty on Monday evening and Tuesday morning. Each day on the hikes was lovely - light breezes, rare clouds, and we avoided any of the violent, torrential downpours that occurred in the late afternoons daily. Overall about as good as it could be.
The Food: I only had one disappointing meal. On the hikes I only ate vegan protein bars, and not that many. They were not long hikes and I usually had a hearty breakfast. Every breakfast had muesli and/or granola and some form of milk, occasionally soy. They also had assorted sweets and breads with jams, etc. When I was in Venice I usually had pasta, with Risotto once or twice, beetroot ravioli, red turnip ravioli (both great), various excellent veggie plates and tiramisu once, cheese cake a few times and always gelato on the walk home. During the day I stopped once for macarons and a cannoli. Italy is a foodie heaven, even for a close-to-vegan. Below, a baked goat cheese and artichoke dish, pasta with clams by the canal for a lunch, a big meal at a rifugio for lunch, a local specialty, sardines in pickled onions and veggies, and a gelato at a famous chain.
The Hiking: We met our guide, Gianlucas, in the hotel lobby. He was a bit early, but so were we. He was about 5’6”, thin, bearded, wearing a ball cap. He seemed nice and low key. From there we drove to another hotel and picked up Sebastian, a tall man of 37, originally from Romania, about to resume working in London in finance. He seemed a bit grumpy and sleepy, but he turned out to be an excellent hiker and a near non-stop talker. Next stop we had to wait a while for everyone else: Liz and Charlotte, a mother and daughter from the UK, and Lyndsie and Molly, friends from Washington St. University, with Lyndsie living in Seattle and Molly in Chicago. We had a fun drive out to the start, which was about an hour away.
DAY 1: We started at a parking lot near a lake. The lake was gorgeous, of course, and it closely resembled Lake Louise near Banff. We went counter-clockwise around it to the far end and began a steady and occasionally steep ascent where I believe we encountered some steel cables. The views were jaw-dropping, and I was skeptical when Gian said this was the worst day for scenery. We came out into a broad panorama and could tell the weather was stirring up. There ws a nice spot for photos and rest (as a rule, I almost never sit down once a hike starts. I don’t need rest and stopping does me no good, only tempts stiffening up. It was a nice break to take the heavy pack off from time to time when we did stop walking.). We walked down the hill to our first hut, which we discussed would be a quick stop due to the weather, but most people ordered drinks and sat at a table for a bit. The WCs there did not have toilets, just holes in the ground with places to squat. We had about 45 minutes or so to get to the rifugio, and when we set out it was with more purpose. The clouds were to our right and we began to hear thunder. I had separated from the main group and was walking by myself, a little behind some others, when a very loud CRACK of thunder came from right behind me! I jumped and shouted, “Jesus Christ!” and couldn’t help but run a few paces, taking inventory to make sure I was ok. I was. I hurried on and caught up with the leaders and then noticed, as the rifugio came into view, Gian and the rest had somehow caught up to us. It was beautiful there and did not rain at all, but we heard stories of a major soaking back near the other hut.
We were all interested in what the rifugio would be like. We were on what seemed to be the third floor, up a narrow stairway. There were 2-3 bathrooms in the hall and one had a free shower. The room was big with a few extra beds. I took the one next to the door as I thought I might have to get up during the night to pee, but it turned out many people needed to go out and I did not, so not a wise choice. I went for my run and took a shower. This was the chilliest place, and I had to bundle up to go out on the terrace to read and enjoy the views. The meal was fine, and then it was bed time. It was a LONG night. I did not sleep well at all, trying to maneuver in the sleeping bag liner and regulating my temperature.
DAY 2 - We got up early so we could leave early and beat the afternoon storms. This hike was likely the easiest one and the least scenic, but it was still beautiful and the weather was nice. We set out the way I ran and followed a gravel road down, then a narrow trail, then another road. We passed a farm and also an impressive road of switchbacks into the valley where a hut served as a refueling point. From there we started up again on a hard stretch, then it went down and back up to the area where our next rifugio was set (along with 3 others). We ate at a different one, and it was a beautiful, warm afternoon. We had planned to go to the rifugio, change and then go swimming in a pond/lake, but it was a pretty tough walk all the way there and back, so we went right to the lake, and it got cloudy and cold as we got to the road that reached the lake. It took me longer than everyone else to get into the water as I wanted to wear my sandals on the rocky shore, but there was never a doubt I was getting in, even though I had to do it in my underwear and reveal my penchant for male bikini briefs - they are the best for running!. The water was cold but not too bad. Not everyone got in. We put everything back together and hiked down to the rifugio, seeing the splendor of a view up the valley that was one of the best.
This rifugio was harder to decipher. We had a room with 8 beds, so a few had to sleep in top bunks (I was glad everyone seemed to think I was too old to get in the top bunk :-). Gianlucas also stayed with us that night. Several of the team went to sleep right away after the hike. I accidentally used one of the women’s bathrooms (the door was propped open and I didn’t see the female marking on it at the time). I went out to look around and relax, write and read, but it was hard to tell where I could sit. Lyndsie and Molly came by eventually and joined me and we had a fun conversation. I decided not to take a shower since I swam in the lake, so I had more time to look around. It was not a good place to run, so I passed. Dinner was good, in a back corner. After we ate, Gianlucas taught us to play an Italian version of rummy where the points were not what you put down but what was left in your hand after someone went out. I won the first hand but then did terrible and tied for last with Molly. Everyone seemed genuinely shocked by my modestly playful chatter. There was an employee playing the guitar and singing songs in English towards the end of our games.
DAY 3: It was another long night - I was a bit sleepy when I went to bed, but the room was dark from others going to bed early. it took me about 15 minutes of struggling to get the sleeping bag liner correct in the dark (I hit my head on a shelf at least once), and that started me off all wrong. I slept a bit better nearer the morning. This night I got up and went to the bathroom as I had to pass a lot of gas. We were a bit more organized and got going at a good time after nice breakfast. The hike went up the hill (not easy) to the lake we’d swum in. The views were not nearly as good in the early morning light. This was the best hike, so beautiful, again with some cows, a hike up and through a pass that was pretty hard, and then down the other side to another lake where we swam. From there it was another long climb, and Sebastian and I asked if we could go on ahead. It was harder and more sustained than the other climbs, but we reached the next rifugio on a cliff at just over 9000ft. It as an unusual landscape, harsh and with lots of the bleached white rocks.
The views were spectacular from the refugio deck, where I tried to get something to eat, but I failed for a long time until I finally ordered inside. I also wandered all over the place to find the room, which was right next to the restaurant but down stairs with a chain across. This place had big bathrooms, and the room was very small and a tight squeeze. Seb and I walked out to the cross and the views there were still fantastic. Such a pretty spot, and this was in the area where the Italian army fought agains the Austrians in WW1.
One of the famous downpours happened once we got back from the cross area, and it kept going through dinner. We could see the sad arrivals in their tarps and rain gear on the deck, and it was hard to see anything beyond the railings. It was the worst dinner of the trip - steamed broccoli, maybe some potatoes and just the burger from an impossible burger, no seasoning, roll or condiments. At least they had some gelato. I quickly got everything ready for bed, and then I went back up to play cards. I did not take a shower again since I had been swimming in a lake. It was the same game, this time with 7 players (fora a few hands), and it was just as fun. I won the first and last games and the overall title of “Card King.” This was my favorite: views were great, food so so, cards fun, but the best part was we did not have to sleep in the sleeping bag liner, so I finally could move around. I got a little more sleep. One message I got from this trip, to go along with my 5 day hike in Iceland from hut to hut, was how little sleep I need to function at least physically at a high level.
DAY 4: I got up early to try to catch the sunrise, but it was mostly behind a peak next to the rifugio, and I did not want to wander around to find a better angle.
Sunrise the last morning of hiking, around 6:30am
They did have a good breakfast, and then we got ready to go. We got our safety helmets (definitely needed) with headlamps, and safety harnesses, not as necessary, but nice to have. Then it was time for team photos.
Left to right: Liz, Charlotte, Terry, Sebastian, Molly, Lyndsie, Gianlucas, and Meltem
It was a bit scary walking down: steep and narrow, and I clipped onto the metal rope a few times. It was fun! I was very excited to see the tunnels. They were built during the war and had some stairs in them as well as rooms where people could shelter. There was very little natural light in parts, but some windows in others. I hit my helmet many times on the ceiling and generally stayed in the back. It was definitely a highlight, but it wasn’t quite as dangerous as I had hoped.
We came out at the bottom as a few people walking up from below got there. It was a pretty long walk down, so walking up to and through the tunnels was not an easy day. There were lots of switchbacks and then we saw a commercial area. We all got there in one piece and stopped for a snack and beverages. There were many sports cars on the roads for a rally of sorts, and I joked the most dangerous moment of the 4 days was crossing the road to get to the little shop. I got two sweets, a trifle with red raspberries in jello and a nice cannoli, and then we were off again. This time would be our last long climb. I enjoyed it, though it was quite steep and rocky at times, with some scrambles up culverts. I was in the front most of the time and then Sebastian went with me up the worst parts, where we were hiking with some 6 and 7 year old children and their teachers (they were very cute, with their little backpacks, shoes and hiking poles). Once we reached the high point, we hiked around the mountain to the backside with its amazing views of the curvy road to the next rifugio. There was a pleasant walk on a cliffside path for the last bit until we got there. Sebastian got us a big table and then everyone arrived for our last meal on the trails. It was nice, though the place was busy. They got us out of there in time to hike down to the gondola to the parking lot to meet our driver early, though he was still late for his next customers. We said good bye to Gianlucas there and rode back the 15 minutes to Cortina d’Ampezzo.
The gondola ride was at the site of those nice rocks, which were popular for climbing. It was quick and expensive at 19E each. It was still a warm and beautiful day when we got back to the hotel. I wanted to shower quickly and then get out to walk around, since I’d gotten there too late to see much on Monday. I wanted a souvenir and bought a nice blue bucket hat, but a lot of the stuff was very expensive , and I still had to carry my bags for two more days. It began to rain lightly as a storm loomed on the mountains just above the town, and I saw pretty much all of the downtown and shopping areas before it rained harder and I headed back.
I have not mentioned the spottiness of the internet most of the trip. I rarely had any connection while we were hiking, and the hotel signals were strongest in the lobbies and weak to non-existent in the rooms. I did a bit of online things Friday afternoon, and then Meltem met me to walk to the wine bar where we were going to get together again. I had no nice clothes, and I went in a t-shirt and shorts, which I quickly regretted as the temperature dropped in the storm. The rain had just stopped when we got there. The others were a little late. I think I had some sort of fruit juice (blueberries?) and then we went next door to a nice restaurant. I had veggie soup, which is an area specialty, and red turnip ravioli, quite awesome (I had lots of veggie ravioli this trip, which I love). Other than a little trouble with the bill and the waiter, we had a lovely last meal together.
Even though I was tired, I did not sleep well that night, either, and I got up early to run. After running and a nice breakfast, I felt a cold coming on, with a bit of sore throat and runny nose (that cold evening!) I wandered around more to soak in the village and then left on the bus, Seeing Molly and Lyndsie in the line. Two hours on a bus is not easy, but I got a lot of reading done, especially because a guy sat right next to me despite there being many seats open. The ride up was pretty, but the ride back was a yawner as we’d seen so many beautiful views since then. I got to the Venice airport and went in to the bathroom (I rushed in and went quickly only to find there was no toilet paper in that stall! Karma!), missing another good-bye for Molly and Lyndsie, and then I was on the bus to Venice after the wallet incident (see DRAMA).
I did not have much trouble carrying everything the 25 minutes it took to walk to my new hotel. It was a small, boutique hotel, and my room was small and very cold due to the AC cranking. I got ready and left as soon as I could for the nearby Guggenheim Museum, only a minute away. It was nicer than I thought, especially since it was along a pretty part of a canal. After that, I walked to the end of that part of the island with its splendid views of St. Marks and other buildings along the water. My camera battery was dying, so I walked back and took a break before going to dinner
My last meal in Venice was along the canal about a 7 minute walk from the hotel, highly rated. It was really good, with excellent service. There was a woman eating alone next to me, and a pigeon flew up and took bread right out of her bread basket on her table! Still she didn’t seem to want to chat at all. I had a nice dessert (tartufo) to get my ice cream for the night. It was still 90 degrees, so I was sweaty and showered. Everything was ready. I got up right when I wanted to and left a little early, and as I recounted in other sections, I had an uneventful trip home.
SUMMARY: If you like to hike, GO TO THE DOLOMITES!!!! It is as pretty as Yosemite with better food, not nearly as crowded, and you will always have spectacular scenery. The trails are good, and you could find your way without a guide, but it was great to have one. MONT Trekking was a great choice, and ask for Gianlucas!. A group hike is a great way to get around and we had a lot of fun. It was a good blend of personalities and hiking styles. If you get a chance, stay in Venice on the shoulders of the trip. Late August and September are excellent times to go. Below are some partial maps of the hikes (I was always forgetting to restart my watch after breaks). The fourth map is the first hike start. The first one is the last part of day three, I think. Third one should be the last part of the last hike.
